Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
